surf theory

surfing rules:

Learn who has the right of way on the wave:

• Furthest out: the surfer that is furthest out or that has been waiting longest

• Furthest inside: the closest surfer to the peak of the breaking wave

• First to feet: the first to feet or first onto the wave

• Communication: the call of "Left!" or "Right!"

Don't Drop In

Cutting in front of other surfers who are up and riding is a quick way of getting yourself in trouble or injured with other surfers. Observe the right of way.

Don't Snake

Repeatedly paddling round someone to get into the inside position on a wave is a no-no.

Don't Hog the Waves

Share them around. Even if you can paddle furthest outside and catch the waves first every time you reach the lineup, don't do it often.

Do Apologise

If you drop in on someone, run over someone, or breach the etiquette and rules in any way, just apologise. It's just good manners. We've all done things that we shouldn't have when out surfing, saying sorry goes a long way to smoothing things over.

Respect the Locals

Keep in mind that the locals surf the spot every day. Give respect while visiting a spot, keep things friendly, earn some respect for yourself. Don't mob surf spots in large numbers. Don't rush straight outside, take your time.

Learn the Right Way to Paddle Out

This includes not ditching your board or paddling into the path of other surfers. Take a moment to observe the waves and time your paddle out accordingly with the timing of sets and use your best judgement to avoid other surf users.  If you have questions don’t hesitate to ask a lifeguard.

Surf Spots that Suit your Ability

Try not to pick a spot that is out of your ability range. You'll only end up upsetting the other surfers by getting in the way or being a potential hazard for everyone.  Always check with lifeguards if you are unsure on where to surf.

Help other Surfers

Always aid another surfer in trouble. Surfing can be dangerous and even fatal, look after each other.

Respect the Beach

Leave only footprints. Don't litter, graffiti, vandalise, or otherwise impact the beach or surroundings.

Equipment

Make sure you have proper and functional equipment such as a leash, sunscreen, and wet suit for cold or warm conditions.

surroundings

Remember to inquire with local Lifeguards for detailed information on safety, rules, and conditions.

type of breaks:

beach breaks

A beach break is a surf-able wave that is breaking onto a beach. The wave is created by the shallow sandy bottom, or sometimes a jetty. A beach break can either be caused by a sand bar out a little ways, or by the wave forming against the shoreline. The advantage to this type of surfing is that you normally don’t have to paddle for miles to get out to the breaking waves. Beach breaks that are caused by sand bars are not always reliable as the underlying sand can move in big storms and swells. Beach break waves do not always break as softly as point break waves or reef waves. On the other hand, wiping out on a beach break tends to be a lot more forgiving than the alternatives. Beach breaks are perfect for beginners, because there is a lot of white wash close to the shore. white wash is perfect to train your pop up, stance, paddling and balance. Beach breaks are also perfect to learn how the ocean works, the waves are inconsistent and the conditions can change really quick, because of this you always need to look at the horizon and look how the waves form and try to guess where they will break.

point breaks

When the conditions are perfect a point break can create a really long wave to ride as the wave wraps around a point or headland and then runs along the coastline of a bay or cove. Point breaks can have rock, coral, or sandy bottoms. Most surfers would consider a point break the perfect wave as the actual time riding the surfboard will be the longest. Due to the length of the individual waves and the ensuing time on the surfboard you will often see multiple surfers all riding the one point break wave (without fear of injuring each other). Point break waves can sometimes be difficult to get onto. Beware of surrounding rocks on the headland or point if you lose your surfboard or get swept onto them. Point breaks can be very reliable under the right conditions, as the headland or point that contributes to the waves is fixed. Point breaks are really good for long boarding, because most of the time the waves will be really mellow.

reef breaks

Reef breaks are created by a reef under the water, often coral. The surrounding water can be quite deep, but due to the formation of the coral reef the waves will break there, often seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Reef breaks can offer fantastic waves but can also be famous for nasty injuries. If you come off your board onto the coral, ouch!! Coral cuts can be pretty unforgiving, not to mention painful. Reef breaks often involve a very long paddle or a boat ride to get to where the waves are breaking. Reef breaks usually offer a longer wave to ride than a beach break. Beware of low tide barrels on the reef though! That coral isn’t too far away if you fall off.

you should only surf reef breaks when you feel confident enough (so not as an beginner). once you're confident enough reef breaks are often easier to ride than beach breaks. because the waves will be easier to read so you can always paddle to the peak. 

Parts of the wave:

Lip

The lip is the top edge of the wave before it breaks.

Shoulder

Is the part that is further away from the breaking part, usually not so steep.

Face / Wall

The steep part of the wave out in front of where you surf. here we do our manoeuvres for example our cutback to get back to the pocket.

Tube / Barrel

Is the part that is hollow that surfers aim for to get a tube ride or barrel ride.

Pocket / Curl

The part that is just before the wave breaks, it is where we get power to continue riding the wave. here we want to stay as long as possible.

Whitewater

Is the white foam of the wave after it has broken.

What are the best conditions?

Wind

The best wind is off shore wind. that means the wind is coming from the beach, this makes the waves clean and easier to read. we also don't want to much wind if it's more than 15 mph than there is to much wind.

Swell

Depends what your level and style is of course, but overall the best swell is between 3 and 5 feet for all styles. It also depends at the beach you want to go, some beaches work good on bigger swells but so,e beaches can't handle these swells and work better on smaller swells or on no swells. so make sure you're informed about the beach were you want to surf and the swell.

Tide

First of all there is spring tide and neap tide. Spring tide happens when the moon is at the full or new phase, which is when the Sun, Moon and Earth are in allignment. Neap tides occur around the first and last quarter phase of the moon, when the moons's orbit around Earth brings it percendicular to the Sun. Spring tides have higher high tides and lower low tides, Neap tides have lower high tides and higher low tides. The bigger swells come around Spring tides. you also have the tides differences in the day, you have two low tides and two high tides during the day, where the sea level can change up to 9 meters. In some countries the tides during the day doesn't really affect the surf and the sea level like Sri Lanka, but in other parts of the world like Europe and Australia the tides affect the sea level a lot and if you're not informed about this it can be very dangerous. So always informe yourself about the tides so you're not vulnerable for suprises.

Type of boards

Foamboards

Foamboards are the boards that we use as a beginner. It's made out of foam, what makes it easy floating and really stabel. These boards are bigger and start from 7'10 to 9 feet. The size and foam makes it easy to paddel and easier to catch waves, but it makes the board harder to turn and more difficult to generate speed. once you master the foamies, you can switch to a hardboard.

Long boards

Long boards starts from 8 feet, have a lot of litres and have a round shape. Long boards are perfect for long and mellow waves for example on a point break. You can take waves earlier than with a shorter board, because of the size and shape. this also takes it easier to paddle and pop up earlier. If you're looking for a calm way to surf and long rides, than long boarding is something for you, once you're getting better it can become a way of dancing on your board with cross step and so on.

Short board

A short board is for more advanced surfers. It's smaller and has less litres. So that means it's harder to paddle, less stable and harder to catch the waves. You can call it a short board when it's less than 7 feet. A short board gives you more speed and more flexibility. Because of this you are able to do more manoeuvres and tricks. The fin set up mostly is thruster (3 fins), but you can also go with 4 fins or even 5. How more fins, how faster. short boards are the best in overhead waves, but can be big fun in smaller waves to.

Fish surf board

Fish surfboards or swallowtail surfboards refer to the tail setup of the surfboard.

What makes a fish surfboard so fun and unique is that it combines a few highly beneficial elements. It combines compact volume in a short template, wide tail width, and stability of a squash tail and the rail control of a pintail.

Packing more foam than usual, into a shorter board, translates to more buoyancy, ease of catching waves, and shorter boards can turn tighter in the pocket.

The fish surfboard is also highly capable at catching waves in small wave situations because of the wide template at the tail. There's more planing surface to keep you afloat. A wide tail also provides great drive down line, which is very important when the waves are small.

Because of this unique combination the fish surfboard makes an incredible transition surfboard for those wanting to transition from a longboard to a shorter surfboard. Overall the fish surfboard is a blast in ankle to head high surf but lacks the hold-ability for overhead waves.